With a late start this morning after a breakfast at The Station in Bandon, Oregon, we only cycled about 28 miles today to Port Orford, Oregon. On our way out of Bandon, we stopped at the former workshops for the “Washed Ashore – Art from the Sea” organization.

The grounds around the workshop were filled with piles of marine debris and sorting troughs by type and color.

It would have been interesting to have seen the students and artists at work on the projects. The photos don’t do justice to the completed projects. They were similar to the fish we saw yesterday in Bandon’s Old Town. If you are interested a traveling exhibit opens at the Smithsonian in DC on May 27, 2016  https://nationalzoo.si.edu/ActivitiesAndEvents/Celebrations/washed-ashore.cfm

And the website for the organization is washedashore.org- could make a great problem-based learning project!

A few miles outside of Bandon, the route became more rural as we were more inland today.

Sheep, cows, horses and cranberry bogs were part of the landscape. Even though we were back on the 101 Highway with several passing trucks, it wasn’t as busy as on the weekend.

We reached Port Orford, the westernmost settlement in the state of Oregon. It is also a small artistic fishing village where the forest and the mountains meet the ocean. Our lodging this evening has a beautiful view looking out over the Pacific Ocean and the local beach studded with rock formations.

An early morning start on a Sunday helped to avoid the traffic as we departed Coos Bay, with a steep hill to get over the ridge that overlooks the Bay.

Once we were out of the urban part of Coos Bay, it was “easy riding” as we cycled next to the South Slough, a canal-like waterway that connects Coos Bay to the Pacific Ocean.

We stopped in Charleston at the Crabby Cakes Bakery,  where scones had just come out of the oven. Umm -good!I also made a new friend.

Charleston is a little fish processing, sport-fishing village at the entrance of the South Slough into the Pacific Ocean. It was low tide and we saw lots of folks out clamming.

After our scrumptious “second breakfast” at the Bakery, we headed out of town  and turned onto Seven Devils Road. As we cycled up the first “hill”, I said to Bill I bet the seven devils refers to seven hills! I was right and some humorous cyclist had fun with comments painted on the road after each hill. See below.

As we climbed the first hill, we noticed a fellow walking his bike up the hill, talking on the phone. I figured – hey, it’s Mother’s Day, he’s calling his mom. We stopped for a break at the top of the hill and the fellow made it to the top while we were resting. He shared his cycling stories, telling us he had been across the country, up to Montana, to Wyoming but it was snowing then over to Portland, OR and then on to the coast. We continued on our way and he kept standing there where we left him. A few miles down the road, a truck beeps its horn, our cyclist friend is riding in the truck and his bike is in the back.  We passed him standing on the side of Highway 101 about an hour later. We now figure that’s how he gets across country, using the bicycle as a prop so folks will pick him up.

Our ride was short today and we arrived in Bandon by noon. We were able to take advantage of the sunshine and walk around the “Old Town” section of Bandon- referred to as “The Southern Oregon Coast vacation destination”.  It is small and quaint and has a lighthouse. It has a unique community-based art project, Washed Ashore – art from the sea- folks help to pick up trash from the beaches and create “street art” from the trash. Very cool project!

Off to dinner – had planned to go to an Irish pub tonight but it is closed for Mother’s Day – typical Irish. So maybe Italian or seafood tonight.

I spoke too soon yesterday as today was a bit foggy and gray, but no rain. Our route today kept us on the main Highway 101 with a decent shoulder leaving Reedsport. After reaching the summit of the first hill, we could look out over Winchester Bay, and see the oyster and clam cultivation in the v-shaped levee.

Traveling through the last part of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, we finally saw the dunes! They do look a little unusual with fir trees growing out of them.

Since it is Saturday, many dune buggies are out on the dunes. We stopped for a quick warm-up coffee and snack at a little market called The Wagon Wheel, in Hauser, Oregon – where Bill was pulled away by the old car and truck.

As i finished my coffee, an older, local gentleman came up to me and said he really liked our LED lights and wished all cyclists used them. He said once the cyclists are in the shadow on the side of the road, you can’t see them. Then he proceeded to scare me out of my wits with a story about a recent cycling accident on the 101. He was behind a vehicle and saw a bicycle come over the vehicle – and then a piece a luggage. He thought stuff was falling off someone’s truck or trailer. Turns out the piece of luggage was a woman cyclist that had been hit. She didn’t survive the accident.
Again, we are doing our best to be safety conscious with our bright lights, bright colors, staying over on the shoulder as much as possible, and watching out for what’s behind us (Bill’s mirror) and what’s ahead. But the story sure unnerved me and I was very cautious and tense for the rest of the ride on the 101. As we approached Coos Bay there is a mile-long bridge that we didn’t take – high winds, not much space for bicycles, and my fear!

The route we are following maps out an alternate way that was about 10 miles longer, but it was nice to get off the Highway 101 for a bit.

We have stopped for the evening in Coos Bay and we’re just in time for their Tall Ships Festival… photos tomorrow!

Sunshine today, who said it always rains in the Pacific Northwest? We have been fortunate so far. We actually had a heat wave today, it was in the 70’s with a wind out of the north – nice to have a little tailwind to help climb the hills. And climb we did, right after leaving Yachats this morning  (after passing the folks exercising on the side of the river).

We cycled up through the Cape Perpetua headlands, managed by the Forest Service, beautiful views of the inlets, chasms and creeks. WE missed the impressive tide action that occurs during high tide, blowing the water up through the holes in the rocks for many feet. The views were still amazing.

As we reached the upper part of the climb, I would have to stop to look over the cliffs and I was particularly looking for sea lions. I lucked out and saw a few swimming in the surf.

A few miles up the road, one could pay $17 dollars to view the famous Sea Lion Caves, where we were told by our hotel clerk tonight that they are not always visible in the caves.

So, I felt pretty good, I got to see them free of charge.  After leaving the beautiful cliff-side, forested headlands, we stopped for lunch in Florence,

and then into the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. One would expect to see sand dunes, but from the road we saw lakes and forest – not what I expected for Dunes!

The dunes exist closer to the ocean – 40 miles worth of dunes!  We have stopped for the day in Reedsport and hope to be in Coos Bay by tomorrow.

While checking out at the Best Western in Lincoln City, the hotel clerk and I conversed about her roots in Germany (she grew up in Wiesbaden and married an American soldier stationed there). We talked about our shared perceptions of the world as seen through the eyes of children growing up in Europe. We both acknowledged that living in different countries as children grow up seems to make one more tolerant of others who are different. As we cycled out from the hotel, the mural across the way echoed the theme of our conversation.

Colors were brighter in the landscapes and seascapes today as the sun was shining. The winds were also blowing from the north, creating tailwinds for us cycling south, increasing our mph especially going uphill. The bridges were a little scary, but I managed.

As we cycled towards Yachats, we were routed on the 101 for most of the trip. One scenic bypass, The Otter Creek Loop was a one way road, a little lower on the cliffs than the 101. It was striped for two lanes, one for cyclists and pedestrians and the other for cars going one way.

It made for a nice, gentle climb towards Cape Foulweather. This Cape was discovered by James Cook in the 1770’s and so named because of the harsh weather. Winds could reach up to 100 mph.

We passed through the towns of Newport, Depoe Bay and Waldport, all unique little oceanside communities. Traveling during this time of year, we are not experiencing the traffic, the crowds, or the no vacancy signs on hotels.

We met two cyclists today, one gentleman was traveling from Moab to Seattle, the other was a young lady from England traveling the Oregon coast. We also met a young lady who had a few weeks off as a mentor teacher in Portland schools and was auto-touring  the coast of Oregon. Arlene, if you read this, I did ask if she knew Spencer – she didn’t.

Bill kept stopping today to take photos of the gorgeous outcroppings of rocks along the coast line – and with low tide some were more photogenic than others. Hope you enjoy the photos – and the title the Oregon Coast Rocks!

We rolled out of Netarts at 7:00 AM, seems like we get going earlier and earlier. Again, there was no breakfast at the motel, so we cycled 20 miles to build up our appetite for breakfast. From the map profile we knew there would be two “good” hills today, the first one was just a few miles outside of Netarts. We followed the coast road for a few flat miles then began a gentle climb to an overlook above Netarts Bay.

This quiet morning ride was on a less-traveled road and provided 20 miles of very few vehicles. As we followed the Three Capes Scenic Route through the Sand Lake Recreation Area, we were amazed at the large area of sand dunes –

“1000 acres of sand dunes that begin at the Sand Lake estuary and extend to the northeast about 3.5 miles. The dunes are surrounded on three sides by a coastal mixed-conifer forest and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. The dunes are an example of an extended parabolic dune system. Dune vegetation is mostly European beach grass and shore pine.”
Leaving the dunes, we began to look for a breakfast place and found one similar to yesterday’s cafe – in Pacific City, the Village Coffee Shop. Fueled up with lots of carbs (waffles, french toast) we tackled the next 30 miles to Lincoln City. We traveled through the Siuslaw National Forest

and had a delightful ride of 10 miles with just a few vehicles passing us. We climbed the last hill of the day and had a four mile downhill run, a little chilly on this overcast day.

As we reached the bottom of the hill, there was a quaint cafe in the crossroads called Otis.

Soup and hot chocolate warmed our innards and we headed out for the last 10 miles of the day. The only truck today that piqued Bill’s curiosity was the one at the Roadhouse where we ate dinner, “The Rusty Truck Brewery”.

Rockaway Beach doesn’t wake up in time to serve breakfast so we headed off this morning around 7:30 to the next town with a breakfast place open.

The Parkside Coffee House was a perfect choice in Garibaldi, Oregon with only about  5 tables. We lucked out as a guest was leaving and offered us her table. Delicious breakfast, coffee, and scones to go fueled us for the trip along the coast (read flat) today.

We arrived in Tillamook a few miles later and toured the famous Cheese Factory. Fascinating machinery  processes the cheese and can be viewed from the Observation Deck.

At the end of the self-guided tour there were several cheeses to sample and then a small cafeteria and the creamery – where Bill had his breakfast ice cream – two scoops of marionberry and blackberry.

Several folks had warned us away from the route that would have taken us past Three Capes (evidently there was a slide and a detour was in place). We took the suggested alternate route, not quite as scenic . While cycling on the alternate, an older gentleman in his pickup truck slowed way down to tell us to be very careful as this road was a “deathtrap”. Way to really make me feel safe, fellow. The only places I felt unsafe were on the curves.

We stopped in Netarts, another very small town on the beach.

Below the motel, a set of wooden steps wanders down the cliff to the beach. Since it was low tide, we could walk a long ways on the beach.

We thought we saw logs on the bar of sand across the water, but they turned out to be sea lions.

As we walked farther down the beach, we did see a baby that was either stranded from mom, or sick. Oregon law states do not touch the marine animals.

Dinnertime required another long walk to the only restaurant in town, but a good one, The Schooner, where Bill enjoyed a stout and another chowder. Methinks he thinks he’s in Ireland. It is green, there are lots of hills, and it is rainy.

Tomorrow we hope to reach Lincoln City – and the map profile says a few more hills.

Our morning began with a tasty breakfast at the Osprey Cafe in Seaside.

Bill tried the arepas – a cornmeal and cream type pancake. I settled for traditional eggs and bacon. We sat outside as the sun warmed our spot at the picnic tables and we could keep an eye on our bikes. After breakfast we headed out of town to tackle the 3 hills

that showed on our map profile, stopping at the top of each one to take a breather, drink some water, and also photograph the gorgeous scenery.

Downhills were quick and most vehicles including the trucks either slowed down for us or gave us plenty of room.

We even cycled through a tunnel today at Arch Cape.

Before entering the tunnel, cyclists push a button that activates flashing lights at the entrance and exit to let motorists know that cyclists are in the tunnel and the speed is lowered to 30 mph. Pretty cool. But very noisy. I’m glad it wasn’t a long tunnel.

We have stopped for the evening in Rockaway Beach and the waves are rolling in right outside our window.

Won’t need the air conditioner on tonight for white noise.

Another gorgeous, sunny day (unusual in these parts) greeted us as we cycled towards our destination of Seaside, Oregon. We left Astoria

by way of two short bridges across Young’s River and then the Lewis and Clark River. We cycled past Fort Clatsop, a Lewis and Clark National Historic Site. Then we followed a winding road

through the valley with short rollercoaster hills, with one long hill before we viewed the Pacific from the summit and headed down

into the town of Seaside. With temperatures in the 80’s, families had come to the beach for the beautiful weather.

Since our hotel room  wasn’t ready, we cycled around town, checking out a few of the shops, picking up snacks at a mom and pop market, finding socks at the Eddie Bauer outlet and Bill picked up WD-40 at the local Ace.

We cycled next to the Pacific on the Promenade, a busy boardwalk similar to Virginia Beach – but much more sand and dunes between the Promenade and the Pacific.

This evening we walked the Promenade to dinner and back, fewer people as most folks have to return to work tomorrow. Bill is sampling the chowders each night and claims that Pacific Coast seafood is much better than back home.

Tomorrow’s weather will be a few degrees cooler, only in the 70’s and we are headed over some hilly headlands and rocky cliffs towards Manzanita, Oregon (as long as I can continue to make it up the hills).

Just in case we have a Tsunami – we must be prepared.

This morning dawned bright and sunny. We left at 7:30 hoping to cover 4 miles to the ferry by 8:00 with no hills to slow us down. A short bridge took us across part of the Columbia RIver to Puget Island,

where we caught a ferry that took us the rest of the way across the Columbia to Westport, Oregon. The ferry had been out of commission all week and we ended up being the only passengers on the short ride 1.5 mile crossing.

Leaving the ferry dock,

we took a short breakfast break at the Berry Patch Restaurant. In a separate kitchen from the restaurant kitchen, the staff cook all kinds of jellies and jams from all kinds of berries and fruits, including elderberry, loganberry, marionberry, raspberry, blackberry, red currant, strawberry, and blueberry. They even had a selection of fruit wines – including rhubarb – which I purchased for Bill. Back on our bikes, we traveled Highway 30 another 27 miles along the Columbia River. We had quite a few hills to climb again today, some were 2 mile ascents (slow and gradual) and 2 mile descents that were covered quickly.

Once we reached the outskirts of Astoria, we were able to leave the highway for a riverside trail.

After a few miles on the trail we thought we heard barking dogs, only to discover as we got closer, it was a sea lion colony.

We have stopped for the day in Astoria and plan to cycle to Seaside tomorrow. Bill may get up early and ride the bridge we did not take. I will have my second cup of coffee and enjoy my book.